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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.