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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.